A single room makes up this garden of Chinese delights. Robed in warm shades of beige and red, and packed with tables that expand just as readily as your waistline, Oriental Garden is a precious jewel much sought-after both for daytime dim sum and top-quality Cantonese. Jammed by noon, dim sum is ordered from carts or the printed menu. The carts carry crowd-pleasers but tune them out and opt for steamy chive dumplings, crisp-baked roast pork triangles, and juicy roast duck. After the dumplings digest, Cantonese takes over. The fish tanks lining the entryway are a good indication of where to start. First-rate preparations of these global swimmers include the seasonal Australian crystal crabs, oysters with ginger and scallions, or lobster "country style."