Tucked into one of those theater-dominated cross streets that define this jumbled area of Times Square, the first thing Osteria al Doge has on the competition is its good looks: think sunny yellow walls, wrought-iron chandeliers, and bright Italian ceramic plates. Not to mention a long marble and wood bar where solo diners can settle into a comfortable padded stool and enjoy a little people-watching before the real show. Back on the plates it's delicious Italian food tended to with love, like a plump tangle of fettuccine verdi in a silky lamb ragù dotted with lemon rind and pitted black picholine olives; thin slices of tuna carpaccio drizzled with citrus olive oil, a dash of crunchy sea salt, and herbs; or a fresh lemon tart topped with strawberries.