Packed with simple furnishings and attended to by a friendly staff, the popularity of this endearing breadbox of a restaurant never seems to fade. On a warm day when the front doors open, few Manhattan restaurants can match its ambience. From her kitchen in back, Chef/owner (and best-selling author) Gabrielle Hamilton has impressed serious diners since 1999. The deceptively modest menu changes often but the chef's signature style shines through in items that are fuss-free yet display an undeniable level of skill and talent. A meal here may feature a crisp-skinned fillet of Tasmanian sea trout set atop a bundle of frisée and crowned by a dollop of perfect homemade mayonnaise; or a creamy, sweet/tart lime custard graced with crumbly oatmeal shortbread.