The experience of dining at Chef Sotohiro Kosugi's eponymous home is stunning, dramatic, and often surprising...as is its rather unexpected location behind the white façade of an unmarked storefront amid the tattoo parlors of lower Sixth Avenue. The diminutive interior is modern, immaculate (if antiseptic), and rightfully keeps the focus on the food. The staff is welcoming and notably deferential to the chef—their respect for his artistry is palpable. The menu showcases the kitchen's understanding of traditions and sometimes creative, playful spirit through prime ingredients like caviar, lobster, and uni. Follow the chefs omakase direction here which might include the likes of black soybean yuba topped with supremely fresh Santa Barbara uni set afloat in shiitake broth; or thinly sliced fluke resting atop chives, shiso, ginger shoots, and mizore ponzu for a dish that exemplifies pure flavors and exceptional technique. Toro can be a sublime experience, silky and embellished with avocado coulis, luscious caviar, and a sesame ponzu. No matter the night's offerings, there are no missteps in the parade of superbly handled, expertly formed, and perfectly chosen fish in each bite of nigiri.