Forget everything you think you know before stepping into this traditional sushi-ya in the heart of midtown—there won't be a California roll in sight. Be sure to reserve ahead, as tables are buzzing with businessmen at lunch, though treating yourself to omakase at the sushi bar is the best way to watch and appreciate the chefs' magic. Soothing wood accents keep perfect company with their soft-spoken, kimono-clad staff and quiet, expert chefs. Menus may reveal such outrageously fresh fish as four silky slices of bonito sashimi ( hagatsuo ); a fresh, live scallop sliced into three rounds with a touch of freshly ground wasabi; mild and delicate branzino nigiri; and benisake, deep orange sockeye salmon, sweet in flavor and pleasantly rich in texture.