Despite the exquisite pain inflicted by their wok tossed green chilies, legions line up for more of Szechuan Gourmet's spicy, tasty, and authentic delicacies. Away from the usual lunch bustle, hordes hustle at this midtown haven for their devilishly delicious repertoire of Sichuan specialties. The attempt at ambience is a touch clichéd, but the kitchen's masterful marriage of ingredients amply atones with tofu crêpes stuffed with shiitakes; crispy lamb dusted with cumin and chilies; and bass fillets swimming in a smoky soup of cabbage and cellophane noodles. Rabbit pieces glazed with a sweet, spicy oil; and conch slivers in roasted chili vinaigrette will leave you delighted. For a quieter (more delicious?) meal, stop by its baby sis on West 56th Street.