Sitting on one of the prettiest area blocks, a plush awning and cheery hostess welcomes diners to this excellent and trailblazing NY mainstay. Inside, the room is relaxing and warm with splashes of green everywhere. While the floors and tables are carved from hard wood, candles and fireplaces soften the mood. A glass-enclosed wine case is a serious showstopper only to be matched by their unpretentious and seasonal offerings. Chef Bill Telepan's devotion to deliciousness manifests itself in calamari "pasta" tossed with arugula pesto; and moist veal meatballs. Tender mezzaluna stuffed with tart and milky burrata; or wild Sockeye salmon bathed in a lemon-thyme dressing and paired with olive oil-potato gratin are why this prized respite is perpetually packed.