There's a downright contagious exuberance to Shelly Firemen's always-packed Carnegie Hall classic, Trattoria Dell'Arte. It might be the smart, confident service staff, or the overflowing, recession-be-damned antipasto bar. Maybe it's the cheeky welcome motto ("What's Italian for Carnegie Hall? Trattoria Dell'Arte."), or the Tuscan-styled rooms lined with mahogany wine racks and dripping candles, that keep people coming back again and again. Expect to pay-perhaps a bit too steeply-for this kind of io non lo so, but the flaky, thin-crust pizzas and heady dishes of finely-sauced pastas do not disappoint. Save room for the irresistible Italian desserts, like an airy cheesecake wrapped in chocolate sponge cake, topped with piping-hot chocolate ganache.