Some places are synonymous with ethnic identities: Brighton Beach is known for Russian immigrants; Jackson Heights is an Indian enclave; but nothing says Italian-American quite like Staten Island. This place is straight up, no apologies Tony Soprano-style joint and the red-sauce Italian restaurants that serve the population generously dole out these hefty standards. With its whitewashed-stucco exterior, neon sign, and mini-strip mall locale, Cafe Luna echoes the borough's take-me-as-I-am attitude and is one of the best of the bunch with its homemade pastas and grilled fish. Even seemingly simple items like stuffed artichokes drizzled with olive oil; anelletti with meat ragù; or a creamy Italian cheesecake are well-made and boast super-fresh fixings.