When David Chang and Anthony Bourdain have sunk their pincers into some far-flung outer borough joint, you know you're in for a treat. Sik Gaek, a Korean restaurant in Auburndale, is a riot of a place: think corrugated metal roofs, blaring rock music, neon aquariums, and flashing traffic lights, and you only start to get a picture. But the fun atmosphere is only the beginning. Kick things off with a piping hot bowl of fish broth bobbing with thin noodles, fish cake, vegetables, boiled egg, and scallions; and then move on to the money shot: an enormous paella-style pan heaped with fresh vegetables, loads of shellfish, and a live-yes, live-octopus, which will probably try to make a run for it. Thankfully, there's not a yellow cab in sight.