From the chilled champagne cart that greets each table, to the modern and gold-toned interior that remains modest and understated, there is a sense of focused ambition and refinement throughout Campton Place. And yet, there is that eye-catching and gorgeous blown-glass arrangement of reddish orchids suspended from the ceiling—a colorful harbinger of the food that will soon arrive, often as beautiful to behold as it is to eat. The predominantly French contemporary menu highlights pure, seasonal flavors and ingredients that emphasize the haute side of cuisine, but the très inventive chef adds wonderful notes of his own traditions. Expect meals to begin with the likes of chopped ahi tuna tartare set upon a narrow strip of watermelon with papadam crumbles and a swath of avocado purée. Entrées have featured plump medallions of bronzed chicken roulade with a farce of chicken mousse, neatly positioned around crisp lardons, grilled nebrodini mushrooms, and a trio of broccoli that has been blanched and smoked, tempura-fried, and puréed. Desserts deliver subtle pleasures through delicate rounds of passion fruit custard with pearls of spherified coffee and a small scoop of icy coconut "snow."