Upon alighting at Chapeau! stylish disciples are welcomed with a kiss-kiss from Monsieur and Madame Gardelle, the husband-wife team that runs this strictly French ship. A long banquette and close-knit tables span the clamorous dining room that, with an ambient amber glow, is equally romantic and spirited for date nights. Chef/owner Phillipe Gardelle is as often shaking hands in the room as he is in the kitchen, where he prepares such classic Gallic dishes as escargots de Bourgogne; salmon gravlax, tartare, and caviar with all the accoutrements; and lavender honey- and Dijon-glazed petit poussin. At the end, the chef may turn up tableside for a round of applause. On weekdays, early birds tip their hats for the under $30 prix-fixe from 5:00 - 6:00 P. M.