Kappou Gomi feels a world away from the city's popular Japanese eateries and, as a sign in the window makes clear, seekers of bento boxes and trendy maki need not apply. This is one of San Francisco's rare kappou restaurants, which specializes in more delicate and authentic food. The small, subdued space features an extensive menu organized by ingredients and intricate preparations that draw a house full of Japanese diners. Look for such exotic dishes as namayuba, a salad of fresh favas in creamy yuba; raw tai with pickled celery in chrysanthemum blossom dressing; and whole aji tataki. Once you've finished the fillets, the kitchen will deep-fry the head, bones, and tail for a crunchy finish. You won't find that at your local sushi hot spot!