Koo is praised and preferred for its delicate tempura and pristine nigiri, but this local darling also advertises an array of maki which, although mighty innovative, are created for an American palate. Enter the pleasant wood-trimmed dining room, dotted with tight-knit tables and hints of classic Japanese architecture, to find a cool Richmond set engrossed in their traditional nightly specials. Take your cue from here, and order off of the list of fresh fish before the droves in line deplete such specials as saba tataki, thin slices of mackerel dressed with scallion and ponzu; top-notch nigiri topped with expertly cut and sourced fish; and an U2 roll filled with lacy shrimp tempura, creamy avocado, and crowned with spicy tuna and tobiko beads.