La Folie is a serious restaurant, discreet and smart, that puts forth a sense of happy romance as timeless and pleasing as the popping of a champagne cork. Even the dining room itself has the feel of well-established elegance with high ceilings, rich colors, and polished woods. The closely spaced tables are dressed with sophistication and populated by couples young and old who seem to be planning or remembering their milestones. This is the kind of place where the chef goes table to table and chats with guests. Meals here might begin with a series of canapés, like pork rillettes with diced apple or smoked salmon roulade lollipops with pickled vegetables. Entrées may reveal the kitchen's elaborate skills in a perfect butter-poached lobster served with flavorful pumpkin ravioli and strong, silky truffle fondue. Their desserts can demonstrate modernity with surprising success. The peanut butter opera cake is freshly layered with chocolaty peanut butter and caramel mousse, salt crystals, and a scoop of curry ice cream—a fantastically unexpected complement to crisp bits of nougatine beneath. Traditions are again celebrated in the madeleines, pâtes de fruits, and very authentic canelés .