This is among the city's few restaurants where jackets are strongly suggested for men, and everyone seems inclined to dress for the occasion of eating here. The ambience is quiet and reserved, though this may be a whispering homage to the excellent contemporary cuisine—never fussy and always flavorful. The sunken dining room feels slightly subdued, though enlivened by bronze sculptures. The black-suited service staff operates as a single, smooth brigade. Fixed menus are offered with a range of options and enhancements, such as the seasonal white truffle tastings. The four-course dinner might begin with a neat oval of finely chopped beef with cracked salt, sour blood sorrel, and Meyer lemon citronette for a very local take on classic tartare. Moist and flaky pan-seared halibut might be placed on a woodsy mushroom purée dotted with piment d'Esplette oil. Slow-cooked chicken takes a brilliant turn when served skinless, then topped with crisped, salted skin chips, with thigh meat roulade, poached apples, and roasted chestnuts. Desserts sing of the seasons, as in the very autumnal pumpkin panna cotta served atop spicy gingerbread cake, streaked with thick and buttery caramel sauce.