Sequestered in a block freckled with small Mission boutiques, Range is just what every neighborhood place should be. This minimally decorated, narrow space is cozy with close-knit tables, attractive candlelight, a tiny bar crowded with foodies, and just a few floral arrangements lending a splash of color to dark furnishings and chocolate leather banquettes. Guests are focused on their conversations-which can get loud-and, of course, the enticing food. Contemporary American meals might begin with a plate of creamed nettles paired with a poached farm egg, black truffles, and buttery, toasty croutons; or entrées like coffee-rubbed pork shoulder with silky hominy and braised greens. People-watchers vie for tables overlooking vivacious Valencia Street.