Laying off the Sauce isn't an option for Hayes Valley locals who can't help but kick back at their neighborhood mainstay, anticipating comfort food classics like baked mac and cheese with ham hock or fried chicken with whipped potatoes and gravy. The Gough Street locale is as cozy as the food: upholstered booths are warmed by light from the semi-open kitchen; dark coffered ceilings and white tablecloths add just enough glam to make this a hot night out. An international bent is evident in lettuce steak wraps with chili-garlic sauce or butterfish wrapped with Prosciutto di Parma. Desserts are a crowd pleaser as in the cinnamon-sugar donuts with vanilla-Bourbon dipping sauce. Don't forget the other sauce, in a glass of crisp, local rosé.