California pizza kitchens love to celebrate the bounty of the season, turning out pies with toppings that would boggle a red-blooded Italian (snow peas and sauerkraut?). Not so at Tommaso's, the family-friendly North Beach mainstay where the wood-fired pizzas hail straight from the old country. The chewy thin-crust pies are heaped with sausage, meatballs, salami, and Prosciutto di Parma. Fancy pants can sample garlic and clams or chicken and artichoke. Set against a bright mural depicting the Bay of Naples, dinners at Tommaso's might also include a meaty antipasto plate loaded with rosemary ham and bresaola, or classic tiramisu. A fixture in the neighborhood since 1935, this fortress is a refreshing escape from seedy North Beach nightlife.