Simple chairs and a blonde wood counter may not be much to look at, but the casual Saratoga interior manages to capture the serene essence of Japan. Wise visitors will take the straightforward space as a sign that Hachi Ju Hachi is focused on cuisine. Delicate à la carte dishes may include cuttlefish with spicy cod roe and pork belly in white miso marinade, but the real adventure begins with a reservation. Folks with a bit of foresight and extra funds may pull up a chair for an elaborate kaiseki where the chef himself will comment on every course. Mouthwatering delights include the likes of kombu-burdock roll; hamachi skin and fragrant shiso; yellowtail sashimi with house-made sea salt; and miso-braised beef with blistered shisito peppers.